LEWIS and HARRIS - part I

 

 

                                                     

                                                                                South  Harris

Isle of Lewis and Harris is the biggest island of Outer Hebrides(or Western Isles) , which is a long chain of isles off north-west coast of Scotland . The larger and mostly flat part is called Lewis , whereas much smaller Harris is mountainous and covers geographicly distinctive, southern area . I went on the tour around this island while visiting nearby Isle of Sky , as an extention of Sky trip . But finally I stayed there longer than I had planned earlier , due to amazing landscapes and smaller number of tourist . On Skye the roads and most popular places were teeming with  sightseekers . On Friday  in the late afternoon , I arrived then at Uig harbour to purches a ferry ticket to Tarbert . To my surprise all tickets for a car passage (next morning crossing ) were sold . The clerk in the ticket office advised me to park my car in the waiting lane overnight . Having left the car in the lane after 11.00 p.m., I went to nearby camping site (I had a tent ). Next morning I was lucky ; I was granted a place on the ferry boat as I was the third in the queue - the other two drivers behind me in the waiting lane wasn't allowed . I could drive in and enjoy the sea crossing on the board .

After an hour and half the ferry got to harbour in Tarbert , which turned out to be a nice, quiet little town. Most visitors started sightseeing with visit at Information Centre just short walk away from the ferry . After getting some fuel I drove south from Tarbert . It was bright, warm day and nearly windlees, but midges were very active and attacked viciously when I pulled off to take a photo .




Harbour in Tarbert (Tairbeart in gaelic)

A couple of miles away from Tarbert I saw something unusual - a large area of sandy beach running wide .

Having driven down close to this magical place I found out it was famous Luskentyre Beach , three miles long stretch of soft , perfect sand . The day was warm and sunny , nearly no wind - I thought it was like a paradise and others  likewise , I think . People were roaming around me , some tried to swim (what a bravery really) others were surfing on the rolling vaves at the furthest end of the beach .




Luskentyre Beach

There were big dunes above the beach and I couldn't help but climb up on top of them . It was a bit like a desert experience on Sahara . And behind dunes by a car park .....

..... the local cemetery .

I left at last lovely Luskentyre Beach and continued driving , heading down along west coast to Leverburgh . On the way the scenery didn't cease to surprise me , like here on the picture to the right .....

                                     .... or here in Northton

                                                    View of Leverburgh ( gaelic An t Ob )

I didn't stop in Leverburgh , where is a ferry connection to South Uist . I was planning to drive back to Tarbert possibly by the end of the evening , following the road along the rugged east coast . But I defenitely wanted to stop for a while in Rodel at the south-east tip of Harris . This little vilage has one of the most important historic buildings on Harris , the late medieval St. Clement's Church .


                                                                

The church was founded after 1520 by 8th Chief of MacLeod clan , Alasdair MacLeod. His tomb built into the churche's wall ,  is one of the finest medieval examples in Scotland .The picture on right shows a part of epitaph, an Angel glorifying the life of Alaisdar .

Having visited St. Clement's church , I moved north keeping to the east coast of South Harris. I followed  a new road running from Rodel along rocky eastern shores, which is an alternative for drivers travelling to Tarbert . The road winds through rocky, desolate terrain and it has been nicknamed "golden road" , because so costly this enterprise was . There was no land free of "rocky lava" around me and stone-claded hills sprang everywhere - the construction workers building the road must have cursed their job.The movement of cars was minimal and there are only a few tiny settlements along that cost , so probably it wasn't necesarrilly to build the road . But at least the tourists can appreciate this route , as the views were superb ( picture above ). Looking westward I could see the outline of Skye on the horizon , framed by the orange-coloured sky .

I didn't make to Tarbert this evening , decided to stay overnight on camping site near Stockinish . Interestingly , all amenities like bathroom or kitchen were placed inside original "Black Houses" , dry-stone houses which back in time were  inhabited by population of Hebrides .Most of these buildings declined, couple of them have been renovated and serve as tourist attractions. Also the camping area was situated at fabulous spot , in the garden-like stretch of terrain above the sea shore. Only midges were merciless and bit terribly . That's the price for sleeping in a tent , however .

 Next morning (Sunday) I left camping site for Tarbert and  after leaving "Golden Road" I quickly arrived in the main town of Harris. Because of Sunday it was even quieter than on day of my arrival from Skye. I took picture of mini take-away(closed) , ate breakfast at bistro opposit the information centre and moved north , to Lewis. My plan was to get to Stornoway on Lewis.

                                                            View of West Loch Tarbert

Tarbert lies exactly at the point which seperates North and South Harris - narrow isthmus overlooks sea Lochs on both sides , West Loch Tarbert and East Loch Tarbert. From that point, drivers travelling up north face the challenge - driving up through mountains of North Harris , past the highest mountain in Western Isles (Clisham 799m) . The drive is really spectacular , the road winds among peaks and with amazing wievs toward sea on the descent .

Having left the mountains behind me , I pulled over by a memorial  commemorating the landing of Bonnie Prince Charlie on that spot in 1746, when the Jacobite Uprising was over. The Young Pretender was on the run, after his army of Highlanders had been heavily beaten at Culloden.
I went down to the shores of  Loch below (called  Airidh á Bhruaich in Gaelic) to watch the flight of an Eagle - I spotted probably a Sea Eagle. Unfortunately , my attempts to photograph it failed as the big bird was chased away by seagulls. I came back to memorial and soon after a man came on his bicycle vehicle. I had seen him before - he followed behind me to board the ferry boat in Uig . I vawed to him "hello" but didn't start conversation as the man was deeply contemplating the vistas stretching from the memorial. I left him there and moved on - to discover what Lewis was offering to me . But about that I ll' write in the second part .