Sunday, 9 November 2014

Ben Nevis via CMD Arete

It was my second climb up the highest mountain in UK , and we were lucky as the weather was great , nearly windless and mostly a lot of sunshine . Contrary to so called "tourist track", I could expect that the trail running by the Carn Mor Dearg Arete would be less crowded and with better views . It looked like the perfect day on the mountain path .So we set out in the morning from the North Face car park. The wide path led us nicely through the wooded area , until we reached the burn , Allt a'Mhuilinn .

                                                                                                         







                                                  Having crossed a fence(over the stile), we marched then up along the stream and left the path after some time , turning left onto the grassy slopes . The new path was boggy and disappearing at places. Over the valley to the right , the massif of Ben Nevis was close , but for now we were traversing the ridge of Cárn Beag Dearg toward the top of Cárn Dearg Meadhonach .




The higher the more rugged terrain , so walking become a bit difficult , especially that the path wasn't clear .
The rocky cliffs of the North Face were in full frame . Despite there was still summer (late August ) , there were patches of snow at places . Had been snow stuck there since the last winter - I couldn't answer that .







The first obstacle on the way bagged - on the top of Cárn Dearg Meadhonach- and the view looking back , down the ridge .












Ahead , the impressive cone of Cárn Mór Dearg.























The next stop , on the top of Cárn Mór Dearg. From here, we could clearly see the craggy walls in distance ,
where we were hoping to attack the summit . The clouds lingered over us , but fortunately it didn't rain .


The panorama of Cárn Mór Dearg Arete is breathtaking - the shoe horse-shaped  crest runs down and up Ben Nevis. What a great way to climb the summit , and what views around .






But reality was harsh - we were mowing painstakingly through the labyrinth of boulders , often jumping or balancing over the edge . It was a real test for my legs . Well , that was the cost of choosing the route with interesting scenery .




At the lowest point on Arete , the valley separating Cárn Mór Dearg and Ben Nevis opens up to all walkers.






We walked upwards again , but by the narrow path on the left side - many "co-walkers" continued over the very top of Arete . The Sun came out of the heavy clouds and we could enjoy the scenery - the mountains behind Glen Nevis looked splendid .









Finally , Arete was over , behind us . On the pass last stop before heading up onto a scree slope .














The track is clear at the beginning but soon disappears among crags, so advancing was slow. At some point I moved to my right side and I found tiny path along the edge of the cliff , close to the "North-East Buttress". Much easier as I didn't have to jump between boulders. Most hikers lost their path as well , so everybody was looking for most convenient way. The final climb is difficult through fields of stones and boulders scattered all over .










Finally , the plateau on the very top of Ben Nevis emerges , and the climb is over . Time to relax and take some photos . The summit with the ruins of the old meteo station is crowded - no wonder , on sunny Sunday like this one the mountain attracts crowds of hill walkers and even families with children.









Looking to the south-east from the top,  an impressive view - the mountain across Glen Nevis really glistens in the afternoon sunlight (Sgurr a' Mhaim) . It gave me an impression of looking at chalk cliffs , like sea-cliffs in Dover .
But it's not chalk , must be the same sort of weathered rocks  like here on Ben Nevis, shining when Sun comes out.





After taking our time on the summit , we didn't retraced our steps, as the walk is circular .We were descending by the standard track , towards the Lochan .







Having lowered to the crossroads , we left the main path ( tourist track ) and took the path towards the north tip of Lochan Meall an t-Suidhe . According to description on "Walking Highlands" , we should descent from that point northerly . The problem was , the path disappeared in the boggy moorland . We had seen walkers going down a bit earlier , but there was no path at all .
It puzzled as a lot, and after some unsuccessful search we decided to decent by no path . We could see the wood where we had started the walk in the morning , so the idea was to make a shortcut. As it would turn out later on , that was what we were supposed to do .









Finally, after fast and  difficult run down the grassy slopes , we reached rapids
of Allt a' Mhuilinn river. Crossing the fast-flowing stream was the last obstacle and now there was a simple walk through the forest to the car park. We could nearly  call it  a day .



Monday, 27 October 2014

In St. Andrews






St. Andrews is mainly famous for its University ( the oldest in Scotland ) and being the birth place of  golf.. Golf's enthusiasts and players from all over the world come here to experience the reach tradition . For many visitors the focal point is the Old Cathedral (unfortunately in ruin since the Reformation time ). But for one visitor who came with me, the main reason was really unusual -having the second name St. Andrew . And coming to Scotland from the States , you are obliged to see this famous burgh .












St Rules tower - the only fully preserved part of big cathedral in St Andrews , which was the biggest in Scotland .

















Strolling around the ruined temple , one can imagine how big and impressive this structure once was .


















Next to Cathedral  another ruins - the castle perched on the cliff .












The path on the cliffs gives panoramic views across the beaches and sea .














Behind the castle to the north , a large sandy beach meets St Andrews Bay .
Nearby , large golf course overlooks the beach and waters of North Sea .










This Gull seemes to be not intimidated  by passers-by . 




The stroll around the Old Town is pleasant - nice and tidy streets . The medieval burgh was enclosed inside the fortified walls .
West Port , was one of the burgh's gates .












Near University , I found this plaque , commemorating the event . The famous American , one of the Fathers of United States was awarded by St. Andrews University when visiting Scotland .








 St. Andrews is a small town , so it dosn't require much walking . That leaves time for simply sitting by the cliffs and watching the sea or enjoying a cuppa in the old town . There are many reasons to go there one day again , anyway .

Saturday, 30 August 2014

Ben More near Crianliarich



Ben More (1171) is the highest Munro's of the Trossachs Highlands , basically the highest south of Ben Lawers . Also ascending its top is consider as a very tough climb , so that makes this mountain very iconic . Although I am not a "Munros' bagger" , I have wanted to "bag" Ben More since  the time I had seen it first time. However as I hadn't hiked for long time , I didn't feel confident enough to start the climb from the north side on A85 , where the most popular route starts . Instead I choose the track going south, along east slopes and ascending on south-east ridge. That alternative seemed to be less strenuous , with more interesting terrain through the wood. I started from a small car park by the main road and then on the path along the burn .














On the higher ground above the forest I found the proper trail , vegetation-grown old landrover track. At some point the track crosses the wider road for forestry vehicles and the steep path winds up through the wood again .
On the photo ; looking back to the North and Glen Dochart .










Having emerged from the wood , I had to find a stile to cross a deer fence . The path going south is boggy and disappearing at places, I couldn't see in which direction should I go .















At last I saw the stile . I got on the other side and moved off  roughly westward, alongside the fence. The sun disappeared and for the next half an hour I was exposed to the rain . Luckily enough, when I got soaked and started cursing this damned weather , I found a big boulder with a  niche in it , large enough to shelter me from raindrops . I waited there 20 minutes till the rain stopped and then again on up the hill .




The sunshine was back for good and far away , as I looked eastward , I could see  Ben Lawers range .












The rugged ridge joining the summit was clear and close to me finally . I could assume , that I would be soon on the top . The fence was turning sharply right , and up towards the ridge . The path wasn't obvious again and I wasn't sure if the right decision would be to follow the fence . Eventually , I turned right along the fence , but  seeing no  clear path , I tried to get onto the ridge by shortcut , negotiating the steep , rocky slopes .







Traversing  the ridge I finally approached the main bulge of Ben More , the last ascent to the summit .I passed by a large patch of ice , a small " glacier " on the south side - I had read earlier that patches of snow could be seen on north face till early  summer . But that amount of hard snow in the beginning of August ?  I wondered if this was indeed the snow from the last winter . If so , this was really a miniature glacier .







Having started the final ascent on the grassy , steep incline ( that was hard work ), I suddenly heard a strange sound ; as if  frog was croaking. But frogs that high in Highlands ?
On closer inspection I saw a couple of birds moving amongst grass and stones - probably ptarmigans .















The higher the better vistas .
Stobinian , looking south from near the summit .















Finally , on the top - after 4,5 hrs walk just 15 minutes spent enjoying the panorama and having my lunch . Then back to the route , descending northward .










Despite being tired , I quickly ( I had to catch the return bus in Crianliarich ) rushed down . One hour later Ben More was behind me. I  started the last leg of my walk ,along A85 to Crianliarich.



Saturday, 2 November 2013

New Lanark village

I have been long thinking about visiting New Lanark  and I finally went there , at the peak of Autumn . Not only to see historic mill village , but have a look at spectacular Falls of Clyde  .The power of the Falls has been long used for industrial purposes , to get the cotton  mill running and nowadays used by the  hydro-electric power station .














The cotton-spinning  company was founded in 1784 by entrepreneur from Glasgow , David Dale. There were built four mills along with large houses for over 2000 workers .The whole mill village has been declared as the World Heritage Site and visitors can find out about factory's past . At the time it was the biggest cotton-spinning business in Britain .











The series of cascades on River Clyde stretches among the woods far  from the historic mill . There is 5 km long walk upstream to the uppermost waterfall .












The first of upper waterfalls , Corra Linn .








 The golden foliage was a perfect frame for the  torrents mingling below.





Bonnigton Linn , the uppermost waterfall on River Clyde .










The final cascades seen from the other side of River Clyde (after crossing the bridge behind Bonnigton Linn ) looks like a little Niagara Falls . I thought there that if I had lost my footing and slipped down the steep bank, I wouldn't have probably survived the slid on the rocky steps  .
















Back at the historic village , I admired the waterwheel , once used to drive factory . The wheel wasn't propelled directly by the river's stream , but by waters of canal diverted from the River Clyde .








New Lanark village is famous not only as a fine example of historic industrial mill , this is a place where Robert Owen started developing his ideology .Owen is wide known as a first socialist philosopher , and in New Lanark he developed his vision of a new society. Having bought the mill in 1799 from his father-in-law , David Dale , he ordered to build a couple of buildings to improve lives of his workers . Owen created public paths for leisure , schools for infants and adults , library.  He established the rule that children under the age of 10 weren't allowed to work. It was usual practise at the time that kids started working at the age of 5 .



                                                             The school house in New Lanark

                                         Robert Owen's house (in the centre of the picture above) .



New Lanark is worth visiting  not only for it's UNESCO status , but because it is really an awesome place .

Saturday, 28 September 2013

Schiehallion - Fairy hill of Caledonians

Schiehallion is one of the most iconic Munro's ; surely its symmetrical shape seen from the distance is well recognisable.That feature has attracted people long ago - humans presence on Schiehallion is dated back since 3000 years ago , possibly as a place of ritual practises. The mountain was also the place of scientific experiment in 18th Century by astronomer Nevil Maskelyne , who measured  'the weight of the world' by setting up observatories on either sides of Schiehallion .


                                                                                               

On my way to Schiehallion I stopped at the famous viewpoint nearby Pitlochry , Queen's View . Widely believed to be named after the visit of Queen Victoria in 1866 , but probably, as the inscription says , the spot memorise Queen Isabella , the wife of Robert the Bruce .

View from the viewpoint over Loch Tummel , with Schiehallion seen further beyond the Loch .





After a nice drive through Tay Forest Park , I approached the beginning of the trail  to Schiehallion's summit , which starts from the car park at Braes of Foss . The mountain from that point didn't look so impressive as earlier did over Loch Tummel , loosing somehow the symmetrical shapes of a big cone .







The path leading on the main ridge is clear and well maintained - the John Muir Trust managing the eastern slopes of Schiehallion did well job . There is a few walking paths in Highlands so well maintained . Beside , the very top of Schiehallion is well visible , so it's nearly impossible to get lost .















 From the first cairn on the main ridge , walking is easier as the incline is less steep, although more shattered pebbles appeared.




The final ascent is rugged ; looks like a devil's job - what's more the path disappears and I had to wade in the stony field , stretching wide and up to the very top . Later on I found the path on the left edge of the ridge , where walking was easier on patches of grass.









On the top the views were splendid , the sun shinning and nearly no wind - so that was really nice to sit for a lunch, looking down to Loch Rannoch . More walkers came and sat around the top , enjoying the bright day after the climb .






Later in the afternoon , I was looking over Loch Rannoch toward Schiehallion , so symmetrical shape . The spot where I took the picture is called  locally  ' The shore of the hanging trees ' - in the years following the battle of Culloden in 1746 many clansmen or common cattle thieves were hanged on this shore, as part of campaign to subdue Highlanders by the British Crown . A bit sad story - but anyway it was a good day .